While exploring the tourist brochures Sheryl had picked up on her way into Saint John, Saint-Andrews-by-the-Sea, barely an hour’s drive away, had seemed interesting, so I had made reservations there for two day's stay. The plan was to spend the morning in St. John, where many of the interesting stores had been closed the day before, and then to drive on down to St. Andrews.
We got up at 08:00 and had our usual continental breakfast. It took us until 10:30 to get ready, as the whole car had to be re-packed in order to stow all the bike stuff.
|In and Out of St. John: One Last Time!|
[Map Removed from Lite-version.]
First we indulged my curiosity and drove to Fort Howe, on the hill overlooking the harbour by which we had passed so many times. Though the hill was visibly prominent, it took us a while to find the correct road approach. I took my time exploring 360 degrees around with my field glasses and reading all the information plaques, while Sheryl examined the foliage. There was a big cruise ship in harbour: The Carnivale Triumph.
|St. John: Fort Howe|
Vignette: Information Plaques
Fort Howe [Click to View]
Late in 1777 Major Gilfred Studholme hurriedly fortified this ridge overlooking the mouth of the Saint John River. Throughout the remainder of the American Revolutionary War the presence of Fort Howe, its guns and garrison, guarded the settlement at the river's mouth from attack by American privateers, a minority of disaffected settlers, and the local Indians with whom treaty was made here in 1778. Allowed to decay after 1783, the fort was once more manned and armed during the War of 1812. The garrison was withdrawn in 1821, but the property remained a military reserve until 1914.
Indian Treaty of 1778 [Click to View]
Following the Franco-American alliance of February 1778, the Britich colonial officials were concerned about the loyalty of the Malecite of the St. John River and the Micmac of Nova Scotia. As a result of negotiations among the Honourable Michael Francklin, representing the Crown, Abbé Joseph-Mathurin Bourg, resident missionary to the Indians, and Pierre Thomas, Supreme Sachem of the St. John tribe, a treaty of peace and friendship was concluded at Fort Howe on 24 September, 1778. The treaty did much to ensure the loyalty of the Indians despite continued American overtures during the Revolutionary War. Major Gilfred Studholme c1740 - 1792 [Click to View]
Born in Ireland, Studholme arrived in Halifax in 1757 and served with the British Army in Nova Scotia until his retirement in 1774. In 1776 he was recalled to service to help quell the Eddy Rebellion in Chignecto. In 1777 he built Fort Howe at the mouth of the St. John River and successfully defended the district against American raiders. He played an important part in negotiating a treaty with the Malecite and Micmac that effectively ended the threat of an Indian war on the frontiers of Nova Scotia. Subsequently as a Crown Agent he fostered Loyalist settleent in the St. John Valley. He died in New Brunswick.
|St. John: Looking West from Ft.Howe|
Towards Reversing Falls
|St. John: Looking North from Ft. Howe|
|St. John: Cruise Ship in Harbour (View From Fort Howe)|
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When we drove on into town, we found parking to be a bit more of a problem than it had been during the weekend. Our goal was to check out those second-hand bookstores and antique stores that were only open during the week. We checked out the Public Market, now open. We checked out a store called 'Loyalist Coins & Books' and made a great haul. We were carefully following the tourist map and seeking out each establishment. It was a long walk over to the 'Scholar's Den', only to find that the owner had introduced a $1 'browser's fee'. We decided on principle not to go in. We retraced our steps to the Public Market, where we had lunch. I had a 'whale of a salad', with all the items, and Sheryl had Thai noodles.
(We parked near Charlotte and Broad. Walked up Germain to the Market. Thence over to Sewell & Cobourg or Dorchester. To find the Scholar's Den, we walked along Union and then along Waterloo. As a consolation, we went into a second-hand store at Union and Waterloo. We climbed back up to the Market, where we sat down facing the alleyway. I then walked along Charlotte, back to the car. I drove over and picked up Sheryl from the laneway next to the Market. We drove back out along Charlotte to Broad, and then followed the main street around the back side of the peninsula)
|St. John: Looking West down King Street towards Harbour|
|St. John Market|
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Since Sheryl was pretty tired from all the walking, and the car was many, many blocks away, I left her to sit at the outside cafe while I hiked over to fetch the car. Along the way, I was able to snap photos of a couple of picturesque buildings, now well lit in the sunlight as opposed to the dark fog of the day before.
|St. John: Flowers & Kiosk in Park|
Vignette: King's and Queen's Square
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(St. John's Tourist Brochure)
|St. John: Impressive Architecture|
I came back by with the car and picked up Sheryl. We drove down and around the peninsula and out the east side for a ways, just to see what was there. The town extended far to the east, through a valley and alongside the railroad tracks. At length, I had gone far enough. I topped up with gas and turned around.
On my way back through town, I took the toll bridge over the harbour (25˘), which brought me right onto the freeway, rather than the route by the Reversing Falls, which I had taken too many times. It was 16:00 as I headed west from St. John along Highway 1. Sheryl dozed as I drove.
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We arrived at St. Andrews by the Sea an hour later, at 17:00, completing the last few minutes along a narrow, twisting road. The motel where I had booked our reservations was a somewhat modern one located on the outskirts of town. We came upon it before we reached the town, so I zipped right on in and we checked in. We got room #9, near the middle of the long, narrow complex, facing a big, grassy expanse. We napped until 18:00
We awoke refreshed and headed on into town for the evening. Our motel was located just outside the built-up portion of the small town. We followed Mowat Drive in and made a first pass along the six to eight block waterfront downtown of St. Andrew's, coming out the far end at the point, where there was a small park. St. Andrew's is built at the base of a narrow peninsula, facing the U.S. across the St. Croix River. The main section of town consists roughly of a four block by eight block grid, comprised of New England style homes and churches and descending the hill towards the waterfront. The main commercial street runs along the waterfront, separated from the river by only a single line of buildings. Halfway along is a small town square, with a pier extending out into the water.
|St. Andrew's: Tinker's Wagon|
After exploring the point, where the breakers of the open ocean were crashing upon the rocky beach, we retraced out route back into the town and found a parking place near the south end of the main street. Sheryl went off and explored a soap store while I talked up an itinerant tinker who was living in a Gypsy-style wagon parked along the street.
The man had a very interesting story to tell. According to him, the town had been trying to get him to move along for some time, but an obscure New Brunswick law gave special privileges to horse-drawn wagons, including the right to park and live on the street. He told me his horse was grazing on a farm just outside of town. He apparently spends the entire Summer riding the back roads of New Brunswick at a horse-drawn speed of two to three miles per hour. I felt a certain kinship with him, as I described my 13-day trek at six to eight miles per hour, already several times his speed.
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|Map of St. Andrew's Main Street|
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Sheryl came out and we walked on down to the town square and out to the end of the wharf. The tide was out and the whole shoreline was a massive mud flat. The sun was behind us as we looked back on the town, lit in blazing yellow by the setting sun.
|Sheryl at St. Andrew's-by-the-Sea|
|St. Andrew's: Sailboat in Harbour|
|St. Andrew's: Shoreline from Wharf at Low Tide|
|St. Andrew's: Looking Seaward from Wharf|
We walked back in and found a free corner in the busy and trendy restaurant right on the town square called "The Grill". We learned it had just been bought by some California émigrés, from Laguna Beach. We had seafood chowder and Caesar salads with chicken. I started off with a beer and we finished off with a couple of lattés.
On the way back, I drove back down to the point once more, to watch out over the sea in the darkness. Then I followed the road back up and around the far side of the thin peninsula, coming out at the top of the hill at the historic turn-of-the-century Algonquin Hotel, the grand hotel of St. Andrew's by the Sea.Top